How to plan an excellent Self drive safari- Botswana

African Safari holidays in Botswana are for many a bucket list dream, but with some careful planning, there are ways to make your safari Botswana budget more affordable. One of them is to plan a self-drive safari Botswana holiday.

This Botswana self-drive guide provides information on hotels, safari camps, car hire, 4×4 rental, routes, tours and everything you need to plan self-drive safari holidays.

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Table of Contents
1 Why Choose to self-drive in Botswana?
2 Things to consider before booking a Botswana Self Drive holiday
3 When is the best time for a safari in Botswana
4 Car Rental
5 Self Drive Safari Botswana trip planning
6 Safari Destinations and suggested itinerary
7 Chobe National Park
8 Things to see in Chobe other than Safari
9 Chobe National Park accommodation
10 Drive to Nata and the Bird sanctuary
11 Makgadikgadi Pans National Park and Naxi Pan National Park.
12 Accommodation in Gweta
13 Self Drive-Okavango Delta
14 Moremi Game reserve
15 Returning to Kasane
16 Other Useful Information – Botswana Park Fees
17 Safari Packing List
18 Driving Distances
19 How to get to Botswana by car and plane
20 Border Crossing Information
21 Touring Botswana Self Drive Saftey Tips

To plan any self-drive Botswana safari tour, a good road map is essential and should be purchased before you begin planning.

This way, you can ensure that your route is both feasible and makes the best use of your time.

I’d recommend purchasing this paper map by Tracks4Africa.

Why choose a safari Botswana Self Drive trip?

Botswana is one of the most stable and wealthiest of all African countries, which makes it a great choice when looking for a destination to go on a fly-drive Safari in Africa.

Self-drive holidays give you the freedom to explore at your own pace.

You can choose which Botswana game parks to visit and save money by hiring a car as this is a more cost-effective way of travelling between Botswana National Parks.

You can use public transport to get between cities, but links and frequencies aren’t great, and while private transfers are available these are of course expensive.

How easy is it to self-drive in Botswana

In short, it depends which Botswana self drive tours you take.

Driving through Botswana from one city to the next is easy as the main roads are sealed.

However, the roads are not always as well maintained as in other parts of the world, and you will come across potholes, but you will be fine in a standard car on the main roads.

During Safari driving most of the roads are dirt tracks, and you will need to consider your Botswana self-drive routes more carefully.

An image of a safari track in Botswana with Giraffes crossing

Don’t worry, there’s plenty of driving in Botswana information within this post, and you can use it to form a safari plan and the best Botswana self-drive routes for your level of adventure.

Before you plan your Botswana self drive itinerary its worth considering the following things.

Are you prepared to sleep in a tent either in the vehicle you hire or at a campsite?

If you answered no, then I would plan an itinerary that includes accommodation either in the cities or just off the main roads.

You can then book day trips and game drives to see the National Parks.

Be aware when booking accommodation that the word “camp” does not necessarily mean that it only has tents.

Most Botswana safari camps and lodges cater to various budgets. Many of the luxury safari camps in Botswana are more like hotels.

Would you prefer to stay at private lodges or have a chalet? If so, how much luxury do you need?

If you want top-end luxury, self-drive holidays are probably not for you. So consider booking a guided African Safari Botswana tour.

Do you think you could manage if something went wrong while on the road?

For example, you might get stuck in the sand, or have to delay your schedule as elephant have blocked the road?

An image of an elephant on the main highway in Botswana

In my experience, you’ll find that you’re much more resilient and resourceful than you think. I guarantee you’ll learn a lot about yourself while driving through Botswana wildlife parks.

Do you have any off-road 4WD experience?

If not either rent a 2WD vehicle to self-drive Botswana between towns and book guided tours. Or choose carefully which national parks you could self-drive and book day trips for those you can’t.

If you want to improve your driving skills, you could take a course before you arrive and then try your own game drive Botswana adventure.

Botswana Safari best time to self-drive

April through to September is considered to be the best time for Botswana safari trips, but away from the sealed roads, a 4WD is recommended.

Outside of these months, a 4×4 would be essential. This time of year is the dry season, which means that:

-There’s unlikely to be rain which means relatively few mosquitoes.

-The animals tend to congregate around the watering holes at this time of year, so they’re easier to spot in Botswana safari parks.

-The daily temperature is slightly lower during this time although it’s still sweltering during the day. It can, however, get quite cold at night, which is something to consider if you are thinking of a self drive Botswana camping holiday.

-Having dry sand on the road as opposed to wet makes driving conditions more manageable. I’m referring here to the firmer yet sandy roads off the main sealed roads.

I should point out that driving in dry sand that’s quite deep is a challenge and you should not attempt it unless you’re an experienced 4×4 driver.

Consider the above points and decide what sort of traveller you are before delving further into safari car rental. Knowing this will help you plan your Botswana self-drive route.

Car Rental Botswana

The best places to visit in Botswana are in the north of the country, and it’s necessary to book a car several months in advance. You can book fly-drive Botswana holidays, but it works out cheaper if you organise things yourself.

2WD Car Hire

Hire a 2WD car and use it to travel on the sealed roads between major cities. You can then book day tours and safaris to see the major sites. Driving on the main roads is easy as they are sealed.

Botswana has all the major car hire companies, and you can pick up vehicles both at the airport or in the major cities.

You can also check Car rental Prices on Expedia

4×4 Hire makes planing Botswana Self-Drive Holidays easier.

Hire a 4×4 to travel between major cities and plan a few independent self-drive safaris. Botswana game reserves are not always easy to drive through so by combining your safari drive with guided tours you’ll get the best of both worlds.

Having a 4×4 will also allow you to stay at some of the camps and lodges within the national parks. You can use a 2wd to access one or two of these, but road conditions are variable, so it depends on how risk-averse you are.

You can book self-drive 4×4 Botswana cars online.  A Toyota Hi-Lux double cab costs around 1000 South African Rand per week to hire.

Hire a fully equipped vehicle for camping Botswana self-drive holidays

For a complete Botswana, self-drive safari experience rent a fully equipped vehicle.

An image of a fully equipped vehicle with the tent on the roof

If you’re after a real adventure and want to be on a continuous drive-through safari, I’d recommend a fully equipped self-drive 4×4 and a camping safari Botswana.

Equipment hire Botswana

Fully equipped vehicles include all your camping equipment and tents that fold out from the roof. Specialist companies, such as Motorhome Republic,  are best used for these types of cars.

Car Insurance Botswana

It’s much cheaper to book your car insurance online rather than through the car hire company. For the best quotes, check travelsupermarket.com.

Tip – Don’t forget to check any vehicle you hire for damage and report it before leaving the car hire place. It’s also a good idea to take pictures of any scratches or dints for your record.

Travel Insurance

It goes without saying that travel insurance is essential when planning any trip.  I always use World Nomads; you can click below to get a quote.

If you would like to know more about why I’d recommend them you can read more about World Nomads travel insurance here.

I did have to visit a hospital in Botswana on my last trip as I had an allergic reaction to some bites, so don’t forget to wear insect repellent.  The hospital facilities in Kasane were excellent, and I had no difficulties claiming the costs back through World Nomads.

Self-drive Safari Botswana trip planning

-First, you need to decide which regions you would like to visit on your self-drive safari Botswana holiday.

The safari destinations below take you through a suggested Botswana travel itinerary which you can follow or adapt to suit your needs.

-Once you’ve decided on your Botswana self-drive safari route, book a vehicle.  

I would advise doing this 3-6 months before your departure. If you are likely to plan a drive to Victoria falls in Zambia, make sure that you can take the hire car across the border.

-Book your accommodation for your safari drive Botswana experience.  

If you’re are travelling during the summer season, it’s advisable to book lodges and campsites at least six months in advance.

Book Day trips three months in advance if you plan on combining them with your Botswana Safari Self drive tour.

Safari destinations Botswana top attractions

To ensure that you make the most of your African wildlife safari, it’s essential to plan which Botswana National Parks and game reserves you wish to visit on your Botswana road trip.

For the best self-drive safari experience allow plenty of time in your itinerary.

Best Botswana Safari Itinerary

Days 1-4 – Chobe National Park

Day 5 – Travel to Nata

Day 6-7 Gweta

Day 8-10 Okavango Delta

Day 11-14 – Moremi

Day 15-16 – Head back to Kasane along the Main Road or

Continue north through the Khwai Development Trust.  You will need several more days to travel this route.

Chobe National Park Botswana

This is an excellent place to start your journey as its close to Kasane, which has an international airport.

You can quickly fill five days here, and I would not recommend anything less than three days as there’s plenty to explore.

Chobe is one of the best places to go on safari in Botswana, and a Chobe self-drive safari is easy to plan.

An image of 2 elephants by Chobe River on safari chobe national park botswana

There are three main sections to the park Chobe riverfront, Linyanti Marshes and Savuti.

Self-drive safari Chobe National Park useful information

The Chobe riverfront is the most popular route, and it’s an excellent drive.

It’s the most accessible park to self-drive around. You don’t get a Chobe National Park self-drive map when you enter the reserve, but the routes are well signposted.

The signposts have the name of the circuit on them and the distance so you can estimate the driving time and the gate people are helpful if you have any questions.

The main entry to Chobe is the Sedudu Gate, which is located 6km/3mi west of Kasane. Its one of the few parks in Botswana that you can enter as a day-tripper without a confirmed booking at a lodge or campsite.

It’s easy to take a self-driving safari along the Chobe riverfront between the Sedudu Gate and the Ngoma Gate.

There are several game viewing loops you can do off the main track, and the road is wide although sandy.

The ones to the north drop down the Chobe flood plains and loop around by the river.

You can’t really get lost, and if you end up at the Ngoma gate, you can take the sealed A33 road back to Kasane.

The Chobe riverfront map below has some driving tracks highlighted as well as the road to Savuti and Linyanti.

Please note that this map is not to be used for navigational purposes as google maps are unreliable, but it will give you an idea of the game drives you can take.

Chobe riverfront map

Self-driving safari times at Chobe

Many would argue that a Chobe Botswana safari has the densest concentration of wildlife of any African safari trips. Chobe game reserve elephants are a major attraction, and it’s estimated that there’s more than 120,000 of them.

However, during busy periods visiting times are restricted to avoid congestion. As you might expect, tour operators get the best slots dawn till 9 am and from 2.30 pm till sunset.

Day-trippers and self-drivers get the time in-between, i.e. 9 am-2.30 pm.

Tip- It’s a good idea to check with the park rangers at the Sedudu gate when you arrive, as they can be flexible.

Chobe Riverfront Safari

It’s worth spending 3-5 days on a Chobe National Park Self Drive adventure.

Trust me; it’s the best safari in Africa that you’ll experience.  

One of the highlights, on my last trip, was watching a herd of elephants crossing the river with their trunks entwined. The line they formed was amazing and watching them protect the young from the currents was a fabulous sight.

Elephants are one of the animals you’ll definitely see in Chobe as are antelope, impala and wildebeest.  Away from the river, you may be lucky enough to spot Lion, hyena and jackal to name but a few.

We didn’t spot any lions on our self-drives, but we did get lucky on the Botswana game drive that I booked.

If you prefer Viator take a look at this day trip.

An image of a Female lion spotted on a self drive safari in Chobe National Park

One of the advantages of a booked tour is that the game drivers communicate with each other to say where individual animals are. This means that you get to see more in a shorter amount of time.

Other activities in the Chobe area.

Chobe river cruise

A cruise on the Chobe River is well worth investing in as you get to see the hippos up close and you can observe the animals from a different perspective than when you drive through the safari park.

As well as mammals, there’s also a great deal of birdlife to be viewed along the river edge.

An image of 2 Hippos on the Chobe River, Botswana

What to do in Botswana besides safari drives

Caracal Biodiversity Centre

The Caracal Biodiversity Centre charges a small entrance fee which goes towards the care of its animals.

If you fancy a change from safaris, this is one of the best Botswana tourist attractions for getting up close to the animals. It’s a great way to spend a couple of hours, and you can drive yourself here.

Its signposted off the main highway from the airport and is about halfway along if travelling towards Chobe Safari Lodge.

This is a research and rescue centre that aims to educate people on the countries small animals. It rehabilitates some back into the wild and keeps those that they can’t.

They have an extensive collection of snakes which if your brave enough you can hold and you can also handle the bush babies.

There was also a baby baboon who was so playful and entertained us the whole time during our visit.

image of me (Fiona) holding a snake around my neck at Caracal Biodiversity centre
Image of a bush baby at Caracal Biodiversity centre

Day trip to Victoria Falls

If you’re not visiting Zambia or Zimbabwe on your itinerary, I would consider a day trip to the falls. As part of our Itinerary, we spent three days in Livingstone before catching the ferry to Botswana.

You can read more about our fantastic adventure swimming at the top of the falls in Angels Pool here.

Visiting Victoria Falls is a popular tour and its advisable to book well in advance.

You can read more about the best hotels near Victoria Falls here.

Where to stay on your Chobe National Park self-drive itinerary

I can highly recommend Senyati Safari camp Botswana you can book through Safarinow.com. This is one of the best safari camps in Botswana, and I thoroughly enjoyed my stay there.

It caters for fully equipped vehicles, campers and those who wish to book a comfortable chalet.

If you have a 2wd drive vehicle, there is a road that is accessible that taxi’s use, but it would be wise to check the conditions ahead of your departure.

Lula, who owns the camp is great to communicate with, and she’ll answer all your emails promptly.

Our chalet overlooked the waterhole where every night elephants came to visit. It was genuinely fantastic you can sit in the bar every evening and watch the elephants under the floodlights from such a close distance.

If you don’t mind being underground, the camp has built a bunker where you can observe the animals from virtually a touching distance.

An image of 2 elephants drinking at the water hole at Senyati Safari Camp

As there are no fences in Chobe national park, the camp employs 24hour security guards to ensure that the animals never come too close to the chalets and tents. That is except for the baboons who seem to appear from nowhere and steal your pots, pans and anything else you leave around.

Food at Senyati

The camp doesn’t have a restaurant, but there are plenty of BBQ’s to cook on, and each chalet has a camping stove and sink outside. They provide all cooking utensils, and wood is available at reception.

The small shop there also sells some essentials and frozen meat. The supermarket isn’t far away, but you do need a car to get there. The nearest one is at Kazungula, which is about 12 km away.

Luxury Accommodation in Kasane

If you want to stay on the riverfront Chobe safari lodge, Botswana has 22 luxurious rooms which overlook the Chobe River. The complex has exquisite gardens and a great viewing deck.

There is also a campsite at Chobe Safari Lodge if you prefer to stay in more affordable accommodation and do not wish to hire a 4×4.

Other options for Chobe National Park accommodation

The Kasane travel lodge is excellent for people hiring a 2wd car or those who want to be close to the Sedudu Gate.

Kasane Travelodge

You can check out other Chobe national park hotels and campsites by clicking here.

Eating out in Kasane

If you fancy a meal out Chobe safari lodge is an expensive but enjoyable meal. The restaurant has a great view over the river, and as many of the river tours depart from here, it does make it a convenient option.

The Old House in the centre of town is also a good option for favourites such as burgers, pizza’s, steaks and of course chips.

The areas of Savuti and Linyanti

The other two areas of Chobe National Park, Savuti and Linyanti, are not easy to get to as the routes are often unnavigable and almost inaccessible in the wet season.

Most visitors to these areas choose to fly in or book a tour.

Click here for more information on tours to this area and other parts of Botswana that are more challenging to drive to yourself.


For the more adventurous, you could include these sections on their 4×4 self-drive safari Botswana itinerary. However, you would need to plan carefully and ensure that you carried plenty of water and diesel along with any other necessary supplies.

Savuti

Driving conditions are not easy on some parts of this route as there is thick sand and muddy sections to negotiate.  

There are no petrol stations inside Chobe National Park, so it’s essential to carry enough petrol for your journey.

There are a few shops at Kachikau, but you are better stocking up on food supplies in Kasane before you depart.

To drive to Savuti from Kasane, you can either drive along the Chobe Riverfront from the Sedudu Gate to the Ngoma Gate or take the sealed A33 to Ngoma.

From Ngoma take the gravelled road south to Kachikau.  The track here is slow going, but there are some stunning views to admire, and the Baobab trees are beautiful.

An image of Baobab trees

When you reach the Ghoha Gate, it’s about another 30km to Savuti camp, which is the best place to camp.

Linyanti

If you have little 4×4 driving experience, this is not a route to attempt.

Few people visit Linyanti due to its remoteness, but if you want to experience the wilderness and have a real adventure, it is possible in the dry season to drive there.

Most of the road is thick sand, and it gets very muddy near the Linyanti Marsh area. The depressions can get very low on the track, and you have to take care not to scape the high edges.

To get there, follow the route to Savuti and at the Ghoha gate drive west. Its approximate 45 km to Linyanti camp and it will take at least 4 hours to drive the deep sand track.

Drive from Kasane to Nata

Before your departure, make sure you fill the car with petrol either at the station in Kazungula or Kasane.

Nata is approximately 300km south of Kasane along the A33, and it will take the best part of 4 hours to get there.

It’s a sealed road all the way, so you shouldn’t encounter any problems in a 2WD. It’s best to drive during the day as its not uncommon to see wildlife (such as elephants) on the road.

When you arrive in Nata its a good idea to fill up with petrol again at the station in town. If you wish to visit Nata Bird sanctuary, I’d suggest staying overnight here. You may also be glad of the rest before continuing to Gweta.

Nata Bird Sanctuary Botswana

This is one of the best places to visit in Botswana if you’re into birdwatching. It’s a community-run sanctuary about 15km from Nata with over 165 species of birds. It’s one of the main breeding grounds for flamingoes and pelicans in Africa.

The best time to visit the sanctuary is in the wet season between December and March.  However, driving conditions can be challenging as the tracks are often flooded.  The ground can also be very slippery, so you’ll need to be a competent 4×4 driver.

During this period you can expect to see tens of thousands of flamingoes. The Sun Pan viewing platform is the best place admire them from as it has an elevated wooden platform.

In the summer months, there are fewer birds, but you may see mammals such as springbok and Zebra.

An image of Flamingo's at Nata Bird Sanctuary

Nata Bird Sanctuary accommodation

You can camp at the Nata Bird Sanctuary Campsite, but booking is not always easy as you can’t do it online.  The campsite does have hot showers and flushing toilets, but the facilities are basic.

If you wish to stay Nata bird sanctuary campsite, you can ring them on +267 7154 4342.

Nata Accommodation

Aside from Nata Bird Sancturay camping, there’s a couple of other places to stay in this area which you can book online.

Pelican Lodge and Camping or Northgate Lodge are both popular choices.

Pelican Lodge and Camping is 12km from the Nata Sanctuary and trips to the Makgadikgadi Pans can be organised through the hotel. It’s a comfortable place to stay, and there’s a lovely outdoor pool. The restaurant serves excellent food, and there’s a good choice at breakfast.

Northgate Lodge, Nata was where we stayed, its located next to the petrol station and was convenient after the long drive.

The place is a little run down, and its busy location is a compromise for its convenience. You can organise tours from here to the Nata Bird Sanctuary, Makgadikgadi Pans and Kubu Island if you wish.

Makgadikgadi Pans National Park and Naxi Pan National Park

From Nata to Gweta, it takes just over an hour.

Gweta

There’s not much at Gweta itself, but it is an excellent base to explore the Makgadikgadi Pans which are the most extensive network of salt pans in the world. This vast area is just stunning and unlike anything I’ve seen before.

There are two protected areas Makgadikgadi Pans National Park and Naxi Pan National Park.

The latter has an excellent reputation for spotting cheetahs. Makgadikgadi Pans self-drive information both parks require a 4WD drive.

The main entrance to Naxi Pan is Makolwane Gate, which is about 60km west of Gweta. A few kilometres further on is the access to Makgadikgadi Pans.

It’s a place worth visiting on your self-drive safari in Botswana although the best time to visit is between December and April. However, this is during the rainy season and conditions can make the roads difficult or impossible to navigate.

Places to stay with a 2WD or those wishing to combine self-drive with Botswana safari packages.

You can book Gweta accommodation through booking.com at Gweta Lodge

We stayed at Planet Baobab which is about 4km east of Gweta you’ll get to the turnoff if your travelling from Nata before you reach Gweta.

This is a friendly camp with a lodge for those who prefer the home comforts. It has an excellent open-air restaurant if you don’t fancy cooking.

One of the best tours you can organise from here is the visit to see the meerkats.

It’s an early start, but these animals are delightful to be around, and once they get used to you, they’re quite happy being in your company.

Meerkats are incredibly tricky to find, so although this trip is expensive and likely to cost around £80, it is worth it. You can also book tours to see the pans from here.

An image of a meerkat in Botswana

Places to stay with Fully equipped vehicles

For the more adventurous Kumaga campsite sits high above the bank of Boteti. It has excellent facilities, but it is tricky to reach.

The road from the main gate of Makgadikgadi pans to the camp can be deep with sand, so you need to check driving conditions when you enter the park. There is another entrance to the site, but you have to cross the river on a pontoon ferry.

Okavango Delta

The next leg of the journey is the  Maun self-drive stretch.

From Gweta it takes approximately two and a half hours to get to Maun, which is the gateway for this region.

An image of the Okavango Delta in Maun, Botswana

Photo by Wynand Uys on Unsplash

Self-drive Okavango Delta

Self-driving around the Delta can be challenging as the Okavango Delta treks are often flooded even in the drier seasons, so it’s advisable to have some 4×4 driving experience before exploring on your own.

I prefer to book guided tours from this region. The boat ride down the Okavango Delta is well worth participating in, click here for more information.

For a full day birding and wildlife watching, I’d recommend Mokoro. If you’re booking this trip, don’t forget to take your binoculars the wildlife is impressive.

If you need advice on the best binos for birding, have a read of my best binoculars for wildlife watching or my compact binoculars buying guide. 

This region is made up of permanent marshlands and seasonally flooded plains the waters of which sustain vast quantities of African wildlife.

The delta is a UNESCO world heritage site and covers up to 22,000 square kilometres.

Self-drive Botswana camping is popular in the area, and Maun is not short of places to stay.

Where to stay in Okavango Delta

For a 4 star experience, I highly recommend the Royal Tree Lodge, which is on the banks of the Thamalakane River. Here you will find animals such as giraffe, zebra and ostrich wandering around the grounds as well as an abundance of birds.

You can also book the Royal Tree Lodge through TripAdvisor.

An image of a Zebra

The lodge can arrange scenic flights over the Delta, horse riding adventures and of course game drives.

Directions to Royal Tree Lodge

If you stay here, the royal Tree will make arrangements to meet and show you where you can leave your 2WD car,  they will escort 4WD vehicles to the lodge, so staying here is stress-free from the start.

Budget accommodation

Okavango River Lodge offers budget accommodation for both campers and those who prefer a basic chalet. The staff are friendly, and you can book various tours through the reception.

Directions to the Okavango River Lodge

To get there, take the Shorobe road towards the Moremi Game Reserve. After approximately 10km along this road you will reach a circle, turn left and continue for about 3 km. The lodge is on the left-hand side.

Moremi Game reserve

Located in the eastern side of the Okavango Delta Moremi was voted the ‘best game reserve in Africa’ by the prestigious African Travel and Tourism Association in 2008. The reserve has one of the richest ecosystems in Africa with over 500 species of birds and 1000 species of plants identified.

It’s home to the big five and many endangered species including the white Rhino and wild dog.

Moremi Game Reserve self-drive itinerary

To visit here, you will need a 4×4 and a reasonable level of off-road driving skills. The best time to visit Moremi game reserve is in the dry season between May and November.

From Maun, we travelled to the Moremi Game reserve and spent three nights here.

An image of a giraffe in the middle of the track on a self drive safari Moremi

Moremi self drive directions to the South Gate Botswana entrance of the Reserve

To get there, take the sealed road from Maun to Shorobe. The route then turns into corrugated gravel until you reach the South Gate Entrance to the reserve.

I would allow a couple of hours to get to the entrance and then another couple of hours to reach Three Bridges, which is the camp we stayed at.

There are some luxury camps within the park which can be book through camp Moremi Botswana. For people self-driving in fully equipped cars, I’d recommend Third Bridge Campsite.

The GPS map coordinates for this camp are  – S19 14 20.21 E23 21 21.81.

The camp is about 52km into the park from the South Gate entrance and will take you a couple of hours to drive. The track is reasonable to navigate, and there’s some beautiful scenery to admire along the route.

Three Bridge Campsite

Three Bridge Campsite is best approached from the south as the campsite is before the third bridge, which can often be closed. It’s advisable to book well in advance as it’s a popular stop for self-drivers.

Around the camp, you can expect to see elephants, hyenas and lions, especially as the sun goes down. Baboons are also frequent visitors, so make sure you don’t leave anything lying around for them to steal.

You should allow some extra time to take a few detours.  The tracks around Xini Lagoon, which is 20km south of the first bridge are particularly stunning.

From the Third Bridge, there are some spectacular driving loops to experience.  The Mboma loop along the reed beds is home to herds of buffalo.

An image of a buffalo in Botswana

The track can be overgrown so do check regularly that grass has not got stuck under the chassis. You can also take guided tours of Mokoro from the Mboma Boat station

Heading north from if Third Bridge is open is reasonably straightforward, and it’s about an hours drive to Xakanaxa.

However, if the bridge is closed its a long detour which takes approximately four hours and takes you back past the first bridge. The road can be waterlogged, which makes driving conditions tricky.

You can of course backtrack via South gate.

Xakanaxa

Camp Xakanaxa is a little easier to get to from the South Gate entrance of Moremi and if your a novice 4×4 driver you should be fine.

You can either drive up the straight road towards Khwai or the more interesting track to the northeast.

If you choose the northwest track, it will take you about two and a half hours to reach Xakanaxa depending upon how many detours you take along the way.  

You will have to do some water crossings on this route, but in the dry season, they shouldn’t cause you any difficulties.

Returning to Kasane

From Moremi back to Kasane it’s an 8-hour drive. You can arrange for the vehicle to be collected in Maun, but the drop off fees are costly. For your return journey, you can either:

Backtrack along the sealed road that’s described through this itinerary or

Continue up to North Gate, through Savuti and back to Kasane.

This route would need careful planning, and a good level of off-road driving skills are required. The direct northbound route from South Gate to Khwai is the quickest option, but there’s very little to see as there’s a high density of trees.

The Moremi Map below gives an approximate location of the possible camps to stay at in the reserve.

The road from Xakanaxa to North gate passes through the forest, and the trees can be dense at times.

About 15km before you reach the north gate, the hippo pool is worth a detour around, and as the views open out, there’s a good chance of spotting elephants.

There is a campsite at North gate or several options at Khwai village.  O Bona Moremi Safari Camp is a good option if you fancy treating yourself for a night of luxury before continuing your drive back to Kasane.

O Bona Moremi Safari Camp

Khwai Development Trust

From the North gate of Moremi Game reserve there is is a wooden bridge, known as the bridge over the River Khawi, which leads to a gravel road.  About 1 km along here is the village Khwai where you can stock up on supplies and pay the game park fees at the Development trust offices.

There are two routes from Khawi to Morebe one of which is a gravelled road which takes you to Mababe. The other track is more tricky to drive but has better wildlife viewing.  This track follows the course of the river for approximately 13km and there are several loop circuits that are worth taking if you have the time.

When you get back on the transit road, continue for a further 5 km.  You can turn off a sandy track here to the there’s Magotho camp which is another 5 km or so. You can book this camp through the Khawi Development Trust Office.

Full circle back to Chobe National Park

If you keep going for a further 35km along the transit road you reach Chobe’s Mababe South Gate.

From here you can go south back towards Shorobe and then onto Maun which is approximately 120 km, or you can continue north through Chobe.

Continuing north is only advisable if you are an experienced 4×4 driver as most of the tracks have deep sand.  It takes around 4 hours to reach Savuti camp from here.

Extend your stay further -Central Kalahari game reserve self-drive

This reserve lies further south and is by far the driest region. Its remoteness is not for many self-drivers as its dessert isolation is a daunting prospect. We didn’t travel to this part of Botswana but if you chose to include it in your itinerary, make sure you carry plenty of water, fuel and food.

You also need to ensure your map reading skills are excellent and bring a compass or GPS equipment.

I hope to return to Botswana later this year and visit the Kalahari game reserve on this tour. If you visit before me, please do leave a comment below with any helpful feedback.

Other useful information to help plan your Botswana self-drive tour

 Botswana Park Fees 2020

The National Parks cover over one-third of Botswana and each one has a gate fee. The Chobe National Park entrance fee, Moremi game reserve entrance fees and Moremi park fees 2020 are all the same as they are implemented by the Botswana Department of Wildlife and National parks.

For 2020 the Botswana National Park fees are:

The entrance fee is 120 pula for internationals, and there’s also a vehicle fee between 10BWP-800BWP depending on the weight of the vehicle.

13 BWpula is approximately £1, and there’s roughly 11BWP to $1 US.

These prices are for Botswana number plates, for foreign-registered vehicles prices are approximately double.

The gates to all national parks open at 6 am -6.30pm from April 1st- 30th September.

Entry fees should be paid in advance at the department of wildlife and national parks offices, but if necessary, you can pay at the gate.

There are offices in Maun, Gaborone and Kasane where you can buy entrance tickets. As a general rule, you are not allowed in the parks without an accommodation booking. Chobe riverfront is the only exception to this rule.

Botswana safari packing list

Botswana Travellers Map– If you’re going to plan a self-drive Botswana safari holiday, I would recommend putting this tracks4Africa map on your safari packing list Botswana.

Nowadays we rely heavily on the internet and google maps, but the reception is not always available in Botswana, and its a not a method that you should rely on.

The best and most detailed map which is printed on waterproof paper and includes distances and estimated drive times is by Tracks4Africa.

The only other plan worth considering is the Shell Tourist Map of Botswana. Shell also produce maps of individual regions including the Okavango Delta and Linyanti, and the Moremi Game Reserve.

Mosquito Net– Essential if your planning to camp as not all sites provide them.

Torch Headlight– This is required to get around the camps and lodges at night as often they don’t have external lights.

Insect Repellent– Botswana’s insect population is as giant as its mammals. Malaria is also a risk in some areas, so a good insect repellent is essential. It’s also advisable to wear insect repellent clothing; there’s a great range on Amazon.

Click on the following links to find the best clothes which include insect repellent and will ensure that those bugs stay away.

Insect Repellent clothing for women

Insect Repellent clothing for men

Insect Repellent clothing for children

Binoculars – If you want to spot wildlife, binoculars are a must. Game drivers will often have a pair on board, but if there’s a group of you, you’ll want your own. The Olympus Pro 10 x42 are my choice for safari but for more information on the best binoculars for safari click here.

You can also read about the best compact binoculars at this link.

Camera with a decent zoom lens to capture those great animal shots. The ones in this post were taken on a Panasonic Lumix GH4.

Check out this post for some great reviews of good cameras to take with you when you travel.

Malaria Tablets – Much of Botswana is considered a malaria zone, and it’s advisable to take Malaria tablets on any Botswana tours and safaris. Consult your medical practitioner for further advice several weeks in advance of your travel dates.

Driving Distances

To help plan your Itinerary below is some of the most common driving distances that people ask about. Please note that these are only guidelines, and I would also allow a few extra hours in your schedule.

Distance from Gaborone to Chobe national park – 651 miles or 1082km

It will take a minimum of 14 hours driving time to complete this route

Distance from Chobe to Okavango delta

From Kasane which is near the Sedudu Gate of Chobe to Maun the gateway city of the Okavango Delta, the driving distance along the sealed highway is 378 miles or 608 km. It will take you approximately 7 and a half hours without stopping.

Distance from Maun to Moremi game reserve

From the centre of Maun to the South Gate of the Moremi reserve it’s not far.  It will take you a couple of hours to drive there, see the section on Moremi game reserve for more details.

Distance from Kasane to Chobe national park

To the main Sedudu Gate its 6km from the centre of Kasane.

How to Get to Botswana

For most people, the easiest way is to fly to Botswana from Johannesburg. Flights to Botswana depart reasonably regularly throughout the day, and you can fly to either Maun or Kasane.

Botswana is a fantastic destination for an African Safari but from most international countries flights go via South Africa.

For the best flight prices check Skyscanner. It’s a fantastic website that compares the best deals from all airlines.

Driving to Botswana from South Africa

It is possible to drive to Botswana from South Africa. There are 14 border points between the two countries. The main ones if you are driving from Johannesburg to Botswana are the following:

The Pioneer Gate is open from 06.00 am to midnight each day and connects Gaborone with Jo’burg via Lobatse and Zeerust.

Ramatlabama which connects Gaborone with Mafikeng is open from 06.00 am to 10.00 pm

Tlokweng is the border crossing between Jo’burg and Gaborone via the Madikwe Game Reserve, South Africa. The gate is open between 06.00 am and midnight.

Car hire is often cheaper from South Africa, but you will need to factor in the extra driving time there and back in your Botswana itinerary. However, on the plus side, you can also include an African driving safari in Madikwe Game Reserve.

South Africa into Botswana Border Fees

Fees have to be paid in Pula, and you can usually change Rand for Pula at the border. The cost depends on the size of the engine, but the lowest fee is P152 ($14US)

You will also need to pay $30US Tourism Development Levy (TDL) upon arrival. This fee goes towards the countries conservation efforts.

How Many hours drive from Johannesburg to Botswana?

From Jo’burg it takes approximately four and a half hours to reach Gabarone, which is the capital of Botswana.

Driving to Botswana from Zambia

The most popular crossing to Zambia is at Kazungula, which is a 15-minute drive from Kasane. You’ll pass hundreds of trucks on the main road queuing to take the Kazungula ferry across the Zambezi River to Zambia.

An image of the Kazungula Ferry Botswana

Cars can bypass them, but you’ll probably still have a long wait as there are only usually 1 or 2 ferries in operation.  The crossing only takes a few minutes, and then you’re at passport control.

South African residents don’t need a visa to enter Zambia, but most other nationalities require one.

You can purchase them at the Zambian border, and the cost for most countries is $50 US.

If you are travelling with a vehicle, you will also have to pay the Zambian road toll fee which is $48 US, the carbon tax which is approximately $11 US and third-party vehicle insurance which is valid for one month.  This insurance costs just under $38 US and is payable even if you already have insurance.

Border Crossing Requirements

It’s best to put all the following documents in a file so that you have them quickly to hand.

Botswana passport requirements

Make sure you have enough spare pages for stamps and that your passport has six months left on it from your return date home, not your outward bound travel date.

Visas for Botswana

South African Passport holders do not require a visa to enter Botswana, and most other countries such as the USA, Canada, Australia, UK and Europe can enter Botswana for 90 days without a visa.  If you are in any doubt, check with your government website.

Vehicle documents

Take your vehicle registration documents with you, a certified copy is acceptable and if you’re not the registered owner of the vehicle make sure you carry an affidavit from the police giving you permission from the owner to take the car abroad.

If you have a finance agreement on the vehicle, you will also need to carry a letter of authority from the bank, which must include your dates of travel.

If you are hiring a car, make sure you carry the correct documents from the hire car company, including a letter of consent from them to take the vehicle into other countries.

License

Although an international driving licence is not required for Botswana its advisable to get one.

 Zambia Stickers

If you are going into Zambia, you will need a ZA sticker on the car which you can get from the AA accredited store.

Touring Botswana self-drive safety tips

1)Always carry food and water in case you get stuck somewhere

2) Carry a satellite phone if you are going to remote regions

3) Book accommodation in advance and let them know what time you are expecting to arrive. That way if you do break down or run into difficulties, they can raise the alarm.

4) Leave your itinerary with someone back home so that there is a record of where you are travelling

5) Never drive at night as animals can be dangerous on the road

6) Always fill up with petrol when you pass a gas station even if it’s just to top up the tank

7)Carry a GPS and download the tracks4Africa maps

8)Make sure you have a spare tyre and the equipment needed to change a tyre

9) If the sand is soft, take some air out of the tyres as this will make driving more comfortable.

10) Plan your drive routes carefully and ensure you have enough time to reach destinations.

11) Sleep inside your tent, even if it is tempting to sleep under the stars. Campsites and lodges are not fenced, so lions, hyenas and other dangerous animals roam free.

12) Never leave food in your tent; animals have a keen sense of smell, so you don’t want to attract them.

13) Stay in your vehicle; never walk around the bush.

14)Drive only on the designated tracks. This is a legal requirement to protect the natural environment.

15) Never feed animals; not only is it dangerous, but you will be encouraging them to befriend humans.

16) Carry plenty of cash.  There are ATM’s in Botswana towns, but they often run out of cash.  Campsites often need to be paid in Cash to, so where possible pay ahead online.

If you’ve got this far, firstly congratulations, secondly if you now think that a self drive Botswana safari is not for you check out Intrepid Travel.  

They have several package tours around Botswana that are all organised on your behalf. Wherever your self-drive safaris take you in Botswana, I hope you’ve found this post useful and that you have a fantastic time.

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Fiona
Fiona

Hi, I’m Fiona Berry- I live in Lancashire in the North of England, but my job as an instrumental music examiner takes me all over the world. Travel has enriched my life in so many ways and allowed me to experience different cultures, make new friends and see extraordinary sights. Through this blog, I share my knowledge and expertise so that my readers have all the resources they require to ensure their travels provide unique and unforgettable memories to destinations that are beyond the ordinary.

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2 Comments

  1. Keith Sharman
    27/01/2020 / 12:29 am

    Hi Fiona
    My name is Keith and I live in Essex. UK, I found this guide to self driving Botswana very useful, thank you.
    I am currently putting together a safari route for a trip planned later this year for three forty something guys. Would you have the time to cast your eye over my plan once I’m nearer to completing. Just to see if it’s feasible. I will be travelling Botswana from Jo’burg for 14/15 days. Self drive camping with hired 4×4.
    It would be great to have someone who isn’t trying to sell me something advise before I set off.
    Regards Keith

    • Fiona
      Author
      28/01/2020 / 10:07 pm

      Hi Keith,

      It’s great to hear that you’ve found this post useful. The best advice I can give you when planning is to allow more time than you think will be necessary. It’s not advisable to drive in the dark in South Africa, so bear that in mind when travelling from Joburg to Botswana. Also, check that you have all the necessary paperwork to take the vehicle across the borders. If you have any questions do get in touch. Botswana is an amazing country and the wildlife is spectacular. I”m sure you’re going to have a fantastic trip.

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